We would like to apologise for any inconvenience caused during renovations! There's a bit of a makeover going on around here, simply because I wouldn't be able to do any justice to the photos all of you (hint, hint) are going to be sending in with the layout as it was before. So, sorry to anyone who is trying to wander around while I'm fiddling! Just to prove that there are no divaish behaviour going on, I've hung up my imaginary sparkly Donna Hay tiara and taken myself back into the kitchen for some seasonal cooking.
Although not always as scrupulous as I should be about eating seasonally (I'll eat my comfort food any time I feel like it thank you very much) there are certain fruits and vegetables I look forward to with anticipation and I try that bit harder to only eat them at the right time of year. Corn-on-the-cob in the autumn, Clementine's at Christmas, watermelon and strawberries at the height of summer and just as the spring is springing - asparagus. I came close to missing it this year as the season is so short that you could blink and miss the changeover from Peruvian asparagus to the closer-to-home varieties. I was keeping my eyes open at the farmers market and in the shops since the middle of May and the least traveled I got was British. England is incredibly proud of its asparagus (available from May-June), and it is often praised by chefs as being the best in the world. If it's good enough for them...
I most often eat these whip-thin spears simply brushed with good olive oil, griddled, seasoned then scattered with Parmesan shavings, while leaning against the counter close to the griddle pan (can you say asbestos fingers?) but you don't really need me to tell you how to do that. Instead, here's a more substantial recipe of a souffle(ish) Parmesan and basil roulade stuffed with ricotta, asparagus and spinach. Serve it with a deep, rich tomato sauce, thickened from a slow simmer, on a futon bed of very lightly dressed rocket (arugula) leaves and you have an elegant, prepare-ahead, dish to serve to, oh about 6 people. The asparagus is still guaranteed that place in the spotlight, but with a pretty fine bunch of backing singers.
This recipe comes from the May 2005 issue of Good Food magazine
CHEESE AND ASPARAGUS ROULADE
For the roulade:
- 85g butter
- 100g plain flour
- 400ml milk, warmed
- 7 eggs, separated
- handful basil leaves, shredded
- 50g Parmesan, grated
For the filling:
- 250g tub ricotta
- 100g emmental, grated
- 12 spears asparagus, blanched in boiling water, halved length-ways if thick
- handful baby spinach
- 200g rocket (arugula) leaves, to serve
- Heat the oven to 200 C. Line a 30 x 40cm greased tray with greaseproof paper or baking parchment. Melt the butter at a medium heat, in a heavy-based pan, add the flour and, stirring constantly, cook for 3 minutes. Off the heat, add milk a little at a time, mixing well to ensure it's smooth (this is essentially a bechamel sauce up to this point). Stir in the egg yolks. In a bowl, beat the whites until stiff, then mix a large spoonful into the pan to loosen the mixture. Gently fold in the remaining egg whites and basil, then season.
- Spread the mixture onto the lined tray so it forms a 2cm-thick (approx.) rectangular shape; top with grated Parmesan and cook for 15 minutes until springy and risen. Leave to cool in the tray.
- Lay the base, still on the greaseproof paper, on a board so that the roughest side is facing upwards. to make the filling, mix together the ricotta and emmental, season, then spread onto the roulade base leaving a gap at the top and bottom of the longer edges. Lay the asparagus lengthwise, running parallel to the long sides, on top of the ricotta and sprinkle the spinach on top.
- Roll up the roulade, peeling it away from the greaseproof paper as you go, as if making a swiss roll, to get a long cylinder shape. Wrap in greaseproof paper, then in foil and twist the ends so it looks like a cracker. Chill for at least 1 hour but preferably overnight.
- When serving, heat the grill to high. To serve, cut the roulade with a serrated into 2 cm slices and arrange on one or two greased baking trays. Turn down the grill to medium and cook for about 5 minutes. CAREFULLY turn over the slices using a fish slice and grill for another 5 minutes until slightly crisp. Arrange 2 slices per person onto each plate and serve with the tomato sauce (recipe below) and a few lightly dressed rocket leaves (too much vinegar will mask the asparagus).
For the simple tomato sauce:
- 50ml olive oil
- 1 small onion, chopped
- 1 stick celery, finely chopped
- 2 cloves garlic, chopped
- 2 tbsp tomato puree
- 2 x 400g chopped tomatoes
- 100ml red wine
- 100ml vegetable stock
- Heat the oil in a large pan and gently fr the onion, celery and garlic until soft. Add the puree and cook for a few minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, wine and stock, season and bring to the boil.
- Turn the heat right down, half cover the pan and simmer for about 1 hour until you have a rich thick sauce, stirring every now and again.
Serves 6 with seconds (for you when everyone goes home).
That looks fantastic! I'm a bit of an asparagus whore myself! ;-)
Posted by: Deborah | June 16, 2007 at 12:34 PM
For years I tried to make a very similar roulade with broccoli, cheese and tomato -- and every time I made it, it would pop a leak in the oven. I'd completely given up, but now looking at yours and how beautiful it is, I'm tempted to try again!
Posted by: Lydia | June 16, 2007 at 01:09 PM
I'm drooling. Again. 'kay you need to pack up the lil miss and move to Ohio with us.
I love how it's sliced and grilled in the final prep.. it looks soooo good. And since Deborah put it so nicely, I can (with confidence) say that I am an aparagus whore as well. har!
xoxo
Posted by: Lisa | June 16, 2007 at 03:13 PM
Mmmm, it looks so good. I have never actually tried asparagus and my mouth is watering.
Anyways, I just thought I'd say hi and it's great to find another baker from Limerick! I haven't come across many other bloggers from Ireland, so there was a huge smile on my face when I found your blog today. It's really inspiring, all your recipes look so good, I'm going to have to try them.
I'm pretty new to blogging and just started keeping a record of my own baking at www.heavenwithstrawberries.blogspot.com.
I'd love if you could stop by some time. And is it okay if I link to your blog from mine?
Posted by: Rebecca | June 17, 2007 at 07:07 PM
Looks delish, Laura - I think your new template is beautiful too!
Posted by: Patricia Scarpin | June 18, 2007 at 02:53 PM
Looks great, and like your new layout too :)
Posted by: Kelly-Jane | June 20, 2007 at 03:16 PM
Oooh my, that looks scrumptious! I have a basic Roulade recipe, but now I really want to try it.
Here's my recipe if you like:
http://www.recipe4living.com/Recipe/48736-Roulade.aspx
I'm an American food blogger/writer moving to Dublin in the fall. Looking forward to reading Irish food blogs like yours!
Posted by: Caley | June 20, 2007 at 08:51 PM
I love asparagus just about anyway I can serve it... this looks like a challenge.
Posted by: sandi@ the whistlestop cafe | July 10, 2007 at 12:21 AM