The Daring Bakers return for another intrepid adventure in sugar! Not content to just lick our wounds from last months sanity defying recipe, we embarked on our new mission (as we chose to accept it) to master the arts of pastry making, two kinds of pastry actually... and caramel.. again. Hurled, guided onto the path to patisserie heaven by Helene at Tartlette and Anita at Dessert First, when I saw this challenge for the classic French Gateau Saint Honore, my first thought was to turn tail and run. My next, more cunning, plan was to take a spontaneous trip to Paris, take in a museum or two and pop into a patisserie for "a little something for the trip home". Instead, after procrastinating until the last minute, the thoughts of what I would eventually be sinking my teeth into proved incentive enough.
I'm going to try and keep this post fairly short, for my own sake as well as yours, as there are almost fifty of us posting this gateau today (find the links on the main page) all of which must be admired and a congratulatory comment left, (yes that is a brazen hint!) in order to boost our fragile egos. The gateau is named after St. Honore the patron Saint of pastry chefs and bakers (appropriate no?!) whose feast day is celebrated on May 16th. So, from the top. Okay the bottom really... starting with a base of HOMEMADE puff pastry, I went for a heart shape to keep my little one happy, on top of this are rings of choux pastry to keep the pastry cream under control . Top with pastry cream filled choux puffs gilded with caramel, a little whipped cream and by now the berries are beginning to feel outnumbered. Sounds delicious? There are no words. Sounds daunting? Absolutely.
We were given the option of using shop bought puff pastry and as this was the scariest part for me I did think about it, but I had made croissants once before and the techniques are similar so I rolled up my sleeves and took the plunge. Little secret? Puff pastry isn't difficult, patience and time are as important as the butter and flour in this recipe so you'll need to be in or near your kitchen for six hours or so. The actual working time is only about half an hour then the dough needs to be rested for an hour between each rolling and folding. It is a joy to work with and there is a certain satisfaction to pounding the butter then feeling the dough becoming smooth and elastic as you regularly roll and fold. Put on some music, do a little dance, make a few beds and get down to some laundry. Before you know it you'll have a slab of beautiful pastry and an immaculate house, apart from the kitchen. Leave it to rest in the fridge overnight before the next stage.
Choux pastry next folks. I had made profiteroles before but not always successfully and often soggy so I was still nervous about this stage. Much quicker to make, it involves heating water and butter in a saucepan, beating in the flour until the whole mess forms a thick smooth dough then beating in the eggs one at a time. While I had a moment or two of lumpy dough this was resolved by squishing the lumps against the sides of the saucepan. To ease the burden on your arms transfer the dough to a stand mixer before beating in the eggs. The main thing to remember here is not to add the eggs all at once, you're looking for the consistency of thick mayonnaise so that the choux rings and puffs will hold they're shape before going in the oven. Keep the oven closed until they have risen, then keep an eye on them until golden and dry, removing them from the oven as they are ready. I found that once they lifted easily off the parchment paper they were done. The rings are baked directly on the puff pastry and take longer, what you're looking for here is a deep gold and puffy base to your cake.
If your nerves aren't completely frazzled by now get started on the pastry cream filling. Essentially this is custard enriched with cream and lightened to cloud-like airiness with meringue. The only part that might cause problems is the custard and again patience is needed so you don't end up with scrambled eggs. I found the directions in the recipe helpful so just keep the heat under the saucepan low and stir... and stir. The rest is simply stirring in cream and folding in stiffly beaten egg-whites and you can choose your own flavouring. My heart belongs to vanilla so this is what I used.
Okay, you don't HAVE to make the caramel, and my poor hand suffered the consequences of this second outing in spinning sugar but it was my own carelessness really. The choux puffs are supposed to be dipped in the molten caramel after being filled with the pastry cream (you will need a pastry bag for this) then left to set before crowning the gateau. Despite my war wounds it was these little beauties that had my tasters weak at the knees. Assembly is easy just spread out your pastry cream in the centre of the cake, place the puffs on top and decorate as you please. It doesn't have to be fruit but it's strawberry season so how could I not! Despite the sugar strands on the ceiling, I am happy with how it turned out, though if I had a master French patissier at my shoulder throughout I'm sure I would have been rapped on the knuckles umpteen times with a spatula, but it would have been worth it.
When Helene was assuring us that she was not completely mad in expecting us to bake this, (note to self: cancel men in white coats) she told us to close our eyes and picture ourselves in Paris, so as I put on my best Pepe le Peu accent and every now and then peeped in the fridge at my creation, I was there. Perhaps your inner Francophile doesn't have a voice as loud as mine but I urge you to give this a try, if not the whole, then at least an element or two (and lo, on the eight day He did create caramel covered cream puffs, and we did eat them).
Paris can wait, for the time being at least.
For the in depth recipe head over to Helene at Tartlette or Anita at Dessert First. Print it out, read it through a few times, draw a deep breath and find your mixing bowl.
I love the heart shape and the fruit decorations!
Posted by: Freya | May 27, 2007 at 10:40 AM
What a beautiful version you have made of it! I love it!
Posted by: ilva | May 27, 2007 at 12:06 PM
Laura,
Blisters and a kitchen war zone aside, your write up makes me want to do it again. Especially the puff pastry! I got so overwhelmed by trying to do it all at once, I went for the store bought.
Beautiful cake, fabulous writing.
Posted by: MyKitchenInHalfCups | May 27, 2007 at 12:38 PM
Wow!! Thank god I didn't sign up, I definitely would have gave up at this creation!! I would have had to escape to Rome instead of Paris - mmmm on second thoughts!!
Posted by: Lorraine@italianfoodies | May 27, 2007 at 12:45 PM
That heart shape is so gorgeous, Laura and the fruit really pops out at you. Loved reading your post too. Brilliant job!
Posted by: Meeta | May 27, 2007 at 02:42 PM
Absolutely gorgeous, Laura! I love the heart shape - and the fruit on top makes it even more beautiful.
Well done, sweetie!
xoxo
Posted by: Lisa | May 27, 2007 at 02:53 PM
OMG sooo lovely! Not to mention you made it heart shape :) The colours are awesome!
Posted by: Anne | May 27, 2007 at 02:55 PM
I heart the heart shape, and the piped puff rings look so pro!
Posted by: baking soda | May 27, 2007 at 02:56 PM
I love your creative take on this... the heart is adorable and the fresh fruit looks amazing! Wonderful work!
Posted by: gilly | May 27, 2007 at 03:17 PM
Absolutely gorgeous! I love the burst of color from the fruit!
Posted by: Helen | May 27, 2007 at 03:55 PM
Beautiful work, Laura. I love the contrast of colors. And I know what you mean about the caramel, been there, done that for sure.
Posted by: Marce | May 27, 2007 at 05:11 PM
Looks fab Laura! I love the heart shape and berries too :)
Posted by: Kelly-Jane | May 27, 2007 at 05:26 PM
The heart shape is fantastic. So cute and the fruit is a nice touch.
Posted by: peabody | May 27, 2007 at 08:31 PM
It looks beautiful, and I can only imagine how good that cream must taste with those berries!
Posted by: mallow | May 27, 2007 at 09:36 PM
Beautiful heart shape. I did mine the same way too but I love the way you decorated yours with different berries. Just gorgeous!
Posted by: veron | May 27, 2007 at 10:02 PM
Oh, too beautiful! It look like a Parisian chapeau, but more delicious. And you made the homemade puff pastry, too. Bravo!
Posted by: Elle | May 27, 2007 at 10:28 PM
Laura,
It's stunning. I love the perfect heart shape and the way you've garnished it with the berries.
Well done!
Posted by: Ivonne | May 27, 2007 at 10:34 PM
I love the heart shape! And the fruit? Let's just say it had my little guys drooling (despite the fact that they have decided they don't like the gateaux at all!)
Well done!
Posted by: Jenny | May 27, 2007 at 10:50 PM
Very very pretty! The shape and decoration are wonderful.
Posted by: Sara | May 27, 2007 at 11:31 PM
It's like a Saint Honore fruit tart! Lovely!
Posted by: Jenny | May 28, 2007 at 12:37 AM
Laura, what a fabulous St. Honore! It does make you just want to sit down at a cafe table and watch the people go by while you munch. Great Job!
Posted by: breadchick | May 28, 2007 at 01:32 AM
Lovely gateau Laura! I like your addition of fruit on top. :)
Posted by: Jen | May 28, 2007 at 02:50 AM
The fruit on top remind me of pavlova, if pavlova were a gateau st honore... nevermind me, it's gorgeous!
Posted by: brilynn | May 28, 2007 at 06:26 AM
Ooo la la! I'm feeling the love. From the heart shape to the colorful berries, it's a masterpiece!
Posted by: Mary | May 28, 2007 at 06:49 AM
Love the heart-shape and the use of various summer berries - very beautiful!!
Posted by: Pille | May 28, 2007 at 07:36 AM