When is a toad not a toad? I guess when it's a mushroom. I have been trying to find the origins of the name of the quintessentially British dish toad-in-the-hole but to no avail. I couldn't find out how it got it's name but the dictionary definition is; sausages in Yorkshire pudding batter, so I guess my effort doesn't qualify but is no less tempting nonetheless.
Purely by chance this is an appropriate dish for today as it is the Spring equinox, and eggs and pancakes are some of the foods associated with springtime feasting. As I think this cold snap may be my last chance to squeeze in some uncompromising comfort food I can't think of a better way to give a nod to winter before ushering in the Spring.
This is my second attempt at this, the first time was with the beautiful dark-gilled Portobello mushrooms I got at the market but the batter didn't rise as well as I hoped, a combination of inexperience and too cool an oven, so not to be defeated I gave it another go last night. This time I just took a toad-in-the hole recipe from Jamie Oliver's Happy Days with the Naked Chef as my starting point and adapted it to suit. I was much happier with the result but I still think I could go puffier! The key is to get the fat as hot as possible before pouring in the batter and the Yorkshire puddings I made with the leftovers turned out beautifully. Next time I'll give the mushrooms a longer blast in the oven to compensate for their cooling effect on the batter. I'm just thinking out loud here, sorry! One last tip I got was to use a thin baking tray, the kind you usually avoid in case they warp in the oven, which helps to get the oil smoking hot. The gravy is caramelized and rich and the stout gives a lovely depth to the traditional onion gravy. Do make it because it takes very little extra effort and can be left bubbling while the "toad" is, hopefully, rising to the occasion in the oven.
You could serve this as the vegetarian option for a Sunday roast with all the trimmings but someone may have to roll you out the door. I just served it with buttered vibrant green Savoy cabbage and the gravy, so luckily I was able to squeeze in some apple crumble for pudding.
While there may not be any toad in this hole I think I can guarantee satisfaction.
MUSHROOM TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE WITH STOUT & ONION GRAVY
- 4 large Portobello mushrooms (or 400g smaller field mushrooms)
- about 40g butter
- 4 tbls olive or sunflower oil
- 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 2 tbls chopped fresh thyme and a few sprigs of fresh rosemary
For the batter
- 285ml milk
- 115g plain flour
- pinch of salt
- 3 eggs
For the gravy
- 2 medium onions, sliced
- 1 tbls olive oil
- 2 tsps caster sugar
- 275ml stout (Guinness, Beamish, Murphys)
- 150ml vegetable stock
- salt & pepper
- Preheat the oven to it's highest setting 240/250 C. Mix the batter ingredients together in a large jug or blitz in a blender. Set aside.
- Place the oil in a shallow baking tray that fits the mushrooms comfortably and put it in the oven to heat up. Put a thick slice of butter, a sprinkle of thyme and about half a clove of sliced garlic on top of each mushroom. Take the tray out of the oven and quickly, (but carefully!) put the mushrooms in. Bake the mushrooms for about ten minutes until beginning to colour and the oil and butter are hot. Pull the shelf with the baking tray out and pour the batter over the mushrooms, throw in a few sprigs of rosemary and close the oven door. Try not to open it again for 20 minutes as the batter can be temperamental.
- Meanwhile make the gravy. Heat the oil in a frying pan. Add the onions and sugar and fry for about 5 minutes until deep golden. Add the beer and stock and season to taste. Cook, stirring frequently, until the alcohol has cooked off and the gravy has reduced slightly, around 10 minutes. Keep warm.
- Remove the "toad" when golden and crisp and serve with the gravy.
Serves 4
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